Chanel FW25/26 Review: A Luxe Return to Texture and Tailoring

Chanel FW25/26 explores rich textures, signature silhouettes, and oversized bows in a refined yet cautious collection. Our full review decodes the runway.

By Elena A. Hart

8/1/2025

black blue and yellow textile
Multicolor tweed dress with tulle sleeves and hem at Chanel FW25/26.
Multicolor tweed dress with tulle sleeves and hem at Chanel FW25/26.

Chanel FW25/26 Review: Luxe Outerwear, Quiet Elegance, and Caution

Chanel’s Fall/Winter 2025/26 collection arrived in Paris with all the quiet confidence one expects from the house. But beneath its expertly tailored layers and tactile richness, it delivered more of a sigh than a statement.

Set against a minimal backdrop, the runway allowed the garments to take center stage—and perhaps, too much space to carry the weight of expectation. This was a collection rooted firmly in heritage, echoing familiar Chanel codes: thick tweeds, exaggerated collars, fur trims, and a parade of impeccably structured outerwear. And while it was undeniably elegant, it also played remarkably safe.

“Tweed reimagined: structured silhouettes layered with tulle and pearls define this season’s elevated minimalism.”

Photo credit: Courtesy of Chanel

Texture Over Shock

Where the collection succeeded most was in its materiality. The textures were decadent—bouclé and mohair rubbing shoulders with sequins, velvet, and layered fur. One of the strongest moments came early: a forest-green tweed pantsuit with an oversized black fur collar. It was rich in drama and detail, but also eerily reminiscent of past seasons.

Outerwear became the unofficial star of the show. Whether it was structured military-style coats or sweeping full-length pieces with theatrical collars, these garments had presence. They offered control and drama in equal measure—tailored for a woman who moves through the world with certainty.

Elsewhere, sheer layers of tulle and illusion fabrics softened the collection’s structure—adding a whisper of romanticism beneath the surface strength. Oversized satin bows appeared throughout, gently exaggerating shoulders, waists, and necklines with Chanel’s signature blend of femininity and form.

Yet, for all the strength in fabrication and silhouette, there was little to challenge or surprise. Chanel offered beauty and craftsmanship, but little evolution.

Muted Colours, Muted Message

The colour story leaned into restraint. Think: olive, cocoa, ivory, black. These tones whispered luxury rather than screamed for attention—a move that, while sophisticated, also felt cautious. The lack of vibrancy allowed textures to shine, but it also meant that many looks blurred into one another, lacking the spark that might elevate a strong look into an iconic one.

Model in black patent oversized shirt dress with bow at Chanel FW25/26.
Model in black patent oversized shirt dress with bow at Chanel FW25/26.
Ombre knit sweater dress with sheer black bow at Chanel FW25/26.
Ombre knit sweater dress with sheer black bow at Chanel FW25/26.

“Sculptural outerwear: PVC gloss and structured drama define the show’s strong narrative.” Photo credit: Courtesy of Chanel

“Ribbon redux: Oversized bow details elevate classic tweed into statement motifs.” Photo credit: Courtesy of Chanel

Representation, Yes. Revolution? Not Yet.

On the casting front, Chanel showed clear steps forward. The runway reflected a broader range of models—more representative of the global luxury audience it serves. It felt intentional, respectful, and overdue.

However, the show’s subdued set and overall tone gave the impression of a brand in holding pattern—marking time rather than charting new territory. With Virginie Viard’s departure still fresh, FW25/26 felt more like a carefully controlled pause than a bold step forward.

Black and white tweed mini dress with pearl necklaces at Chanel FW25/26.
Black and white tweed mini dress with pearl necklaces at Chanel FW25/26.
Model in pastel ruffled gown with layered bows from Chanel FW25/26.
Model in pastel ruffled gown with layered bows from Chanel FW25/26.
White jumpsuit with oversized black satin bows at Chanel FW25/26.
White jumpsuit with oversized black satin bows at Chanel FW25/26.

“Illusion plays: tweed structured with delicate tulle overlays and trompe‑l’œil effects, capturing Chanel’s tactile subtlety.” Photo credit: Chanel

“Soft romanticism: pastel bows and layered ruffles hint at femininity—but not quite evolution.” Photo credit: Chanel

“Sculpted softness: satin fluidity meets oversized bows in a look that balances quiet drama with Chanel’s signature restraint.” Photo credit: Chanel

Final Word from Stylish London Life

At its best, Chanel FW25/26 is a reminder of everything the house does so well—luxury without fuss, tailoring with depth, and textures that beg to be touched. The collection is confident, deeply wearable, and absolutely Chanel.

But fashion’s most powerful maisons aren’t just meant to preserve legacy. They’re meant to evolve it.

This collection delivers elegance and refinement in spades. Still, it feels like a pause rather than a pivot—a beautifully crafted echo of past triumphs rather than a bold new direction. As longtime admirers of the house, we want Chanel to lead, not just reassure.

Verdict? FW25/26 is a polished, poetic reflection of what Chanel has been. Now we wait—eagerly—for what it will become.

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